Baku

Overview

Baku sits on a peninsula jutting into the Caspian Sea — not technically the Mediterranean, not Central Asia, but something in between and entirely its own. The city was one of the world's first oil boom towns (1870s) and is in the middle of its second oil boom, which has funded some of the most eye-catching new architecture of the 21st century (the Flame Towers, the Heydar Aliyev Centre by Zaha Hadid, the Crystal Hall). Beneath the Flame Towers is a UNESCO-listed medieval walled city (İçərişəhər) that was a Silk Road caravanserai hub and still contains a 12th-century palace and a 5th-century fire temple. The contrast between medieval and hyper-modern is Baku's defining quality.

Best Time to Visit

April to June — mild (18–26°C), the Caspian coast is accessible, and the city is at its most navigable before summer heat. September and October — the second sweet spot; temperatures similar, tourist numbers down. July and August are hot (30–38°C) and can be dusty with Caspian winds.

Top Things to Do

İçərişəhər (Old City)

The UNESCO-listed medieval walled city is the authentic heart of Baku — labyrinthine lanes, caravanserais (one still operating as a restaurant), the 12th-century Maiden Tower, and the 15th-century Palace of the Shirvanshahs. The Maiden Tower (possibly a Zoroastrian fire temple converted to a fortress) is Baku's most distinctive monument and offers views over the old city and the Caspian.

Heydar Aliyev Centre

Zaha Hadid's 2012 cultural centre is one of the most remarkable buildings of the 21st century — a single flowing white form with no corners, rising from the surrounding park like a cresting wave. The exhibitions inside are secondary to the architecture; the building is experienced by walking its ramps and undulating surfaces.

Flame Towers

The three glass towers on the hill above the old city are permanently backlit to resemble flames — a reference to Azerbaijan's ancient association with natural gas fires (the Zoroastrian religion was born here; "Land of Fire" is a national motto). Best seen at night from the Old City walls or the Boulevard.

Yanar Dag (Burning Mountain)

25km north of the city, a hillside has been burning continuously since at least the 13th century (Ibn Battuta mentioned it) — natural gas seeping through the ground ignites and cannot be extinguished. One of the world's stranger natural phenomena, and the literal origin of Azerbaijan's "Land of Fire" designation.

Baku Boulevard

The 25km promenade along the Caspian shoreline was the first thing the oil barons built in the 1880s. The new sections have expanded it massively — it contains gardens, the Carpet Museum (shaped like a folded carpet), the seaside café culture, and the best views of the Flame Towers.

Food & Drink

• Plov — Azerbaijani saffron-infused rice with lamb, chestnuts, and dried fruit. Cooked in a qazan (cast iron pot) with a crisp bottom crust (qazmaq). The national celebration dish.
• Dolma — Grape leaves stuffed with minced lamb, rice, and herbs. Different from the Greek version and worth the comparison.
• Dushbara — Tiny meat dumplings in clear broth with vinegar and garlic sauce. The Azerbaijani wontons.
• Lavangi — Chicken or fish stuffed with walnut-onion paste and slow-roasted. A festive dish.
• Black tea with jam — Azerbaijanis drink tea from pear-shaped armudu glasses with a spoonful of fresh cherry or quince jam on the side. Essential.

Getting Around

Baku's metro (two lines) covers the main areas. Taxis are cheap but negotiate the price before getting in (or use Uber, which operates here). The old city and modern centre are walkable.

Heydar Aliyev International Airport is 25km from the city centre. Taxi: 20 minutes.

Budget Guide

Day Trips

• Gobustan Rock Art — UNESCO-listed prehistoric rock carvings 60km southwest, with a museum explaining the site's history. Nearby mud volcanoes bubble with grey clay at 20°C.
• Sheki — A Silk Road caravanserai town in the Caucasus foothills, 300km northwest. The Palace of the Sheki Khans has extraordinary stained-glass windows. 4h by train.
• Lahij — A village of Caucasian Albanian craftsmen (still speaking a pre-Turkic language) in the mountains, specialising in copper.

Practical Info

• Currency: Azerbaijani Manat (AZN). Cash preferred for traditional markets and taxis.
• Language: Azerbaijani (Turkic). Russian widely spoken among older generations. English in tourist-facing businesses.
• Visa: E-visa required for most nationalities; obtainable online.
• Tipping: 10% in restaurants.
• Safety: Safe. Normal urban precautions.