Cologne

Overview

Cologne (Köln) is one of Germany's oldest cities — a Roman city since 38 BC (Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium), the birthplace of Eau de Cologne, and home to one of the world's great Gothic cathedrals. The Kölner Dom took 632 years to build (1248–1880) and is the largest Gothic church in northern Europe; it held the record as the world's tallest building for four years (1880–1884). The city's cultural institutions are excellent: four Roman museums, a strong contemporary art scene, and the Cologne Philharmonic. The Carnival (February/March) is Germany's most exuberant street festival.

Best Time to Visit

May to October — warm Rhine promenades, outdoor beer gardens, and the city's cultural season. December brings one of Germany's best Christmas markets (at the cathedral, at the town hall, on the Rhine). February/March brings Cologne Carnival (Karneval) — five days of street parades, costumes, and universal Kölsch drinking that begins precisely at 11:11am on the Thursday before Ash Wednesday.

Top Things to Do

Cologne Cathedral (Kölner Dom)

The twin-spired Gothic cathedral is the defining image of Germany's Rhine valley. Construction began in 1248 and wasn't completed until 1880 — 632 years. The interior is vast and dark: the Shrine of the Three Kings (the largest medieval reliquary in the Western world, containing the supposed relics of the Magi), the Gero Cross (970 AD, the oldest large crucifix north of the Alps), and the stained glass windows spanning medieval to contemporary (Gerhard Richter designed the abstract south transept window in 2007). Climb the 533 steps of the south tower for the best Rhine view.

Romano-Germanic Museum (Römisch-Germanisches Museum)

One of the best Roman museums outside Italy — built around a 3rd-century Roman mosaic (the Dionysus mosaic, 10m × 7m) that was discovered when digging an air raid shelter in 1941. The Roman glassware, tools, and tombstones are extraordinary.

Museum Ludwig

The finest collection of modern and contemporary art in Germany outside Berlin — the largest Picasso collection outside Spain, a remarkable Pop Art section (Warhol, Lichtenstein, Rauschenberg), and German Expressionists. Free on the first Thursday evening of each month.

Hohenzollern Bridge & Love Locks

The 1911 railway bridge over the Rhine is hung with over 100,000 padlocks left by couples. The view of the cathedral from the east bank of the Rhine (walk across or view from the Deutzer Brücke) is the city's most photographed perspective.

Chocolate Museum (Choco-Story)

The museum on the Rhine documents the history of chocolate from Mesoamerica to the modern industry (Cologne's Stollwerck was one of the 19th century's great chocolate firms). The flowing chocolate fountain is the attraction children will remember.

Food & Drink

• Kölsch — The local beer: pale, top-fermented, served in tall 0.2-litre Stange glasses by Köbes (the traditional waiters, who bring replacements without being asked until you put your beer mat on top). Not a drink — a culture. Best at Brauhaus Früh or Zum Sion.
• Himmel und Äd — "Heaven and Earth": black pudding with fried onions on mashed potato and apple sauce. The archetypal Cologne dish.
• Halver Hahn — A rye bread roll with Dutch cheese and mustard. Despite the name ("half a chicken"), there is no chicken in it.
• Reibekuchen — Potato pancakes with apple sauce. Sold at Christmas markets and year-round at traditional restaurants.

Getting Around

Cologne's KVB network covers U-Bahn, S-Bahn, and buses. The old town and cathedral are walkable from the main train station (Köln Hauptbahnhof, directly beside the cathedral). Rhine cruises offer a different perspective.

From Frankfurt: 1h by ICE. From Amsterdam: 2h30 by Thalys/ICE. Cologne-Bonn Airport is 15km southeast.

Budget Guide

Day Trips

• Bonn — Beethoven's birthplace and Germany's former capital, 30km south. The Beethoven House, the Federal Art Hall, and the excellent Museum König of natural history. 25 minutes by S-Bahn.
• Aachen — Charlemagne's imperial capital at the Belgian border. The cathedral (UNESCO) contains Charlemagne's throne and the Shrine of Charlemagne. 45 minutes by ICE.
• Rhine Gorge — The 65km stretch of Rhine between Bingen and Koblenz, lined with castle ruins, vineyards, and the Lorelei rock. By train (30 minutes) or cruise.

Practical Info

• Language: German. English widely spoken.
• Tipping: Round up or leave 10% in restaurants.
• Safety: Very safe. Normal precautions around the main station at night.