Overview
Hanoi is Vietnam's capital and oldest major city — a thousand-year metropolis that has survived Chinese occupation, French colonialism, American bombing, and economic transformation with its essential character intact. The Old Quarter (36 ancient guild streets, each named for the craft once practiced there) is one of Southeast Asia's most atmospheric historic districts. The French colonial Quarter and the lakeside gardens of Hoan Kiem are the other defining pieces of the city. Hanoi is slower, more traditional, and more historically layered than Ho Chi Minh City — and for many travellers, more rewarding.
Best Time to Visit
October to April is the dry and cool season — temperatures of 16–24°C in winter (December–February), rising to 28–32°C by April. This is the ideal window. May to September brings the monsoon season: hot (35°C+), humid, and with heavy afternoon rains. Hanoi can be cold and grey December–February (jacket required) — unlike the tropical south.
Top Things to Do
Old Quarter (Phố Cổ)
The 36 ancient guild streets each once specialised in a single trade (Hang Bac = silver; Hang Dao = silk; Hang Quat = paper fans). The trades have diversified but the medieval street pattern, narrow tube houses, and density of commerce are still intact. Walking the Old Quarter in the early morning — before the motorbikes reach full intensity — is one of the great experiences of Southeast Asia.
Hoan Kiem Lake & Ngoc Son Temple
The lake at the centre of the city (Sword Lake) is where, according to legend, a golden turtle reclaimed the magic sword that helped King Le Loi defeat the Ming Chinese in 1428. Ngoc Son Temple sits on a small island, connected to the shore by the red Huc Bridge. The lake is circled by a walking promenade; on Sunday mornings, the streets around it are closed to traffic and filled with exercise groups, dance classes, and badminton games.
Ho Chi Minh Complex
The mausoleum, museum, stilt house, and gardens where Ho Chi Minh lived from 1954–1969. The mausoleum contains Ho's embalmed body (closed for maintenance each October–November). The Presidential Palace and the simple wooden stilt house he actually preferred to the palace are the most humanising part of the visit. The One Pillar Pagoda nearby is one of Vietnam's most distinctive ancient structures.
Vietnam Museum of Ethnology
The best museum in Hanoi — covering the 54 ethnic groups of Vietnam, with outstanding exhibits on traditional culture, music, textiles, and architecture. The outdoor section contains full-scale reconstructed communal houses. Genuinely excellent.
Hoa Lo Prison (Hanoi Hilton)
The colonial-era prison used by the French for Vietnamese political prisoners and later by North Vietnam for American POWs (including John McCain). The museum tells the story from both perspectives, though the American section emphasises the POWs' comfort rather than their treatment. Sobering and important.
Food & Drink
- Phở bò — Hanoi's claim to having invented the definitive version: a clear beef broth simmered for 12 hours with charred ginger and star anise, served with rice noodles and thin beef slices. Add basil, lime, and chilli. Available at every corner from 6am.
- Bún chả — Grilled pork patties and belly served with rice noodles, fresh herbs, and a dipping broth. Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain ate this together in Hanoi in 2016.
- Bánh mì — The Vietnamese baguette sandwich — a French colonial legacy. Loaded with pâté, charcuterie, pickled vegetables, coriander, and chilli. Best from a street cart at breakfast.
- Chả cá Lã Vọng — Turmeric-marinated catfish fried tableside with dill and spring onions, served with rice noodles and shrimp paste. One dish, one restaurant (Chả Cá Lã Vọng, 14 Chả Cá Street) has served it for four generations.
- Egg coffee (cà phê trứng) — Robusta coffee beneath a thick layer of whipped egg yolk cream. A Hanoi invention from 1946, when milk was scarce.
Getting Around
Hanoi is navigable by motorbike taxi (Grab moto), Grab car, and taxi. Walking the Old Quarter is essential. The bus network is comprehensive but confusing. The airport bus (86A) connects Noi Bai Airport to the Old Quarter in 50 minutes for 35,000 dong.
Noi Bai International Airport is 30km north of the city.
Budget Guide
| Category | Budget | Mid-range | Luxury |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | $8–20/night | $40–100/night | $200+/night |
| Food | $5–12/day | $20–45/day | $80+/day |
| Transport | $2–5/day | $5–15/day | $30+/day |
| Activities | $3–10/day | $15–35/day | $80+/day |
| Daily total | $18–47 | $80–195 | $390+ |
Day Trips
- Ha Long Bay — The UNESCO-listed bay of 1,969 limestone karst islands is Vietnam's most famous natural landscape. Overnight cruises leave from Ha Long City (165km, 3h from Hanoi).
- Ninh Binh — The "inland Ha Long Bay" — rice paddies, limestone karst formations, and ancient capital ruins 90km south of Hanoi. Day trip or overnight.
- Sapa — The mountain town near the Chinese border with Hmong and Dao ethnic minority villages and rice terraces. 8h by overnight train or 5h by new highway.
Practical Info
- Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND). Cash required for street food and local markets. USD accepted at some tourist businesses.
- Language: Vietnamese. English in tourist areas; limited outside.
- Tipping: Not traditional; welcome in tourist restaurants. Round up in taxis.
- Safety: Very safe. Watch your belongings in crowded areas; be careful crossing roads.
Frequently Asked Questions
October to April is the dry and cool season — temperatures 16–24°C in winter, ideal for sightseeing. May to September brings hot, humid monsoon weather with heavy rains. Hanoi can be cold and grey December to February — bring a jacket.
Two to three days covers the Old Quarter, Hoan Kiem Lake, Temple of Literature, Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, and the Vietnamese Women's Museum. Use Hanoi as a base for Ha Long Bay (2-day cruise) and Sapa overnight trips.
Hanoi is generally safe. The main hazards are motorbike traffic (cross roads slowly and steadily — traffic flows around you) and occasional bag-snatching from motorbikes. Use reputable transport apps (Grab) rather than street taxis or xe om motorbike taxis.
Vietnam offers e-visas to most nationalities (apply online, ~$25, valid 90 days single entry). Citizens of many countries (UK, US, EU, Australia) are eligible for the e-visa. Some nationalities qualify for visa-free entry. Check the official Vietnam immigration portal.
Hanoi is extremely budget-friendly. Expect €20–40/day for budget travel or €60–100/day for mid-range comfort. A bowl of pho costs €1–2; a local restaurant meal €3–6. Ha Long Bay cruises range from €80 (budget junk) to €300+ (luxury cruise).
The Old Quarter (Hoàn Kiếm district) is the best base — central, full of guesthouses and local restaurants, and walkable to the main sights. The French Quarter around Hoan Kiem Lake is a step up in comfort. Avoid the far outskirts.
Sit on a plastic stool at a street-side pho shop before 9am for the full Hanoi breakfast experience. Bún chả (grilled pork with rice noodles) is another Hanoi specialty — it's what Barack Obama ate with Anthony Bourdain here in 2016.
