Prague

Overview

Prague is one of those cities where the beauty is almost absurd. Gothic spires, Baroque palaces, Art Nouveau facades, and a medieval bridge that looks like a film set — all miraculously spared from WWII bombing. It's also one of the most affordable capitals in Europe, with beer cheaper than water and meals that leave your wallet intact. The challenge is seeing past the tourist crowds on the Royal Way to find the real city beneath.

Best Time to Visit

April to June and September to October offer comfortable weather (15–24°C), manageable crowds, and golden light. May is particularly gorgeous — the gardens at Prague Castle burst into bloom. Summer (July–August) is warm and packed with tourists. Winter (December–February) is cold (-2 to 4°C) but atmospheric — Christmas markets fill Old Town Square, and the snowy castle views are magical.

Key events: Prague Spring International Music Festival (May–June), Christmas markets (December), Signal Festival (October — light installations across the city), Czech Beer Festival (May).

Top Things to Do

Prague Castle (Pražský hrad)

The largest ancient castle complex in the world — a city within a city on the hill above the Vltava river. St. Vitus Cathedral (with its stunning stained glass by Alfons Mucha), the Old Royal Palace, Golden Lane, and the gardens all require at least half a day. Buy the Circuit B ticket (covers the essentials). Enter through the back (eastern) gate to skip the main entrance queue.

Charles Bridge (Karlův most)

The 14th-century stone bridge lined with 30 Baroque statues, connecting the Old Town to the castle quarter. It's magical at dawn (6am) when you'll share it with photographers and pigeons. By 10am it's a wall of tourists. Cross it early, or admire it from the riverside instead.

Old Town Square & Astronomical Clock

The medieval square is Prague's heart — the twin-spired Týn Church, the Astronomical Clock (hourly show on the hour, modest but charming), and colourful Baroque facades. Climb the Old Town Hall Tower for the best views in the city.

Letná Park

Cross the river to this hillside park for sweeping panoramic views over the Old Town's red rooftops, the bridges, and the castle. The Metronome (a giant moving sculpture where Stalin's statue once stood) is the viewpoint. The beer garden here serves cold Pilsner with the best view in Prague.

Vítkov Hill & National Monument

Less visited than Letná but the views are equally spectacular — a wide panorama from the eastern side. The functionalist monument on top is enormous and slightly surreal. The surrounding Žižkov neighbourhood is full of dive bars and local character.

Vyšehrad

Prague's second castle, on a cliff above the Vltava. Far quieter than Prague Castle, with a Romanesque rotunda, a beautiful cemetery (where Dvořák and Mucha are buried), and dramatic river views. Perfect for a quiet afternoon escape.

Beer Culture

The Czech Republic drinks more beer per capita than any country on earth, and the quality justifies it. Czech pilsner was invented here (in Plzeň, a day trip away). In Prague, drink at hospody (traditional beer halls) — Lokál Dlouhááá for perfectly tapped tank Pilsner Urquell, U Fleků for the dark lager brewed on-site since 1499, and the monastery brewery at Strahov for the view.

Kafka's Prague

Franz Kafka was born and lived in Prague. His birthplace near Old Town Square has a small museum. The Franz Kafka Museum in Malá Strana goes deeper. But the best Kafka experience is just walking the narrow lanes of Josefov and the Old Town at dusk, imagining the world that produced The Trial and The Metamorphosis.

Neighbourhoods Guide

Staré Město (Old Town) — The historic centre with the square, the clock, and the bridge. Beautiful but the most touristy area. Eat and drink on side streets, never on the main square.

Malá Strana (Lesser Town) — Below the castle, Baroque churches and embassy buildings line quiet cobblestone streets. Charming gardens, cosy wine bars, and a more relaxed pace.

Vinohrady — Elegant residential neighbourhood east of the centre. Art Nouveau architecture, tree-lined streets, and some of the city's best restaurants and cafés. Where young professionals live. Excellent value for accommodation.

Žižkov — Raw, alternative, and full of dive bars. Named after a Hussite warrior. The TV Tower with its crawling baby sculptures is bizarre and iconic. The most "local" Prague experience.

Holešovice — Former industrial district now home to the DOX contemporary art centre, the Vltavská waterfront, and a growing food scene. Prague's emerging creative neighbourhood.

Food & Drink

Czech cuisine is hearty comfort food built for cold winters:

• Svíčková na smetaně — Braised beef in a creamy root vegetable sauce with bread dumplings and cranberry. The Czech national dish. Done well, it's sublime.
• Trdelník — The spiral pastry sold everywhere is actually a Slovak/Hungarian import, not Czech. Still tasty, but locals roll their eyes at the "traditional Czech" marketing. Eat one if you want but don't call it authentic.
• Smažený sýr — Deep-fried Edam cheese with tartare sauce and fries. Czech fast food at its finest. Best from a street window, not a restaurant.
• Kulajda — A creamy dill and potato soup with a poached egg. The best Czech soup and widely available at lunch.
• Czech beer — This is the real culinary highlight. Pilsner Urquell, Budvar, Kozel, and dozens of microbreweries. A half-litre in a pub costs 50–70 CZK (€2–3). Always order "čepované" (draft).

Budget tip: Look for "denní menu" (daily menu) at lunch — Czech restaurants serve a soup + main course for 130–180 CZK (€5–7). It's the best value meal in any European capital.

Getting Around

Prague's metro is fast, clean, and easy — three lines (A, B, C) cover the city. A 30-minute ticket (30 CZK) or 24-hour pass (120 CZK) works on metro, trams, and buses.

Trams are the scenic way to travel. The 22 tram is legendary — it winds from the centre up to the castle quarter through picturesque streets.

Walking is the primary mode in the compact historic centre. Old Town to the castle via Charles Bridge is about 25 minutes on foot.

From the airport, Bus 119 to Nádraží Veleslavín metro station takes 25 minutes and costs the standard 40 CZK ticket.

Budget Guide

Day Trips

• Kutná Hora — Silver-mining town with the Sedlec Ossuary (a chapel decorated with 40,000 human bones) and the Gothic St. Barbara's Church. 1 hour by train. Unforgettable and slightly macabre.
• Český Krumlov — A fairy-tale town with a castle, a river loop, and a Renaissance theatre. 3 hours by bus but worth the trip. Stay overnight if you can.
• Karlštejn Castle — Gothic castle on a hilltop, built to guard the Crown Jewels. 40 minutes by train + a scenic walk up the hill.
• Plzeň (Pilsen) — The birthplace of Pilsner beer. Tour the Pilsner Urquell brewery and taste unpasteurised lager straight from the barrel. 1 hour 10 minutes by train.
• Terezín — The WWII concentration camp and ghetto. A sobering, important visit. 1 hour by bus.

Practical Info

• Currency: Czech Koruna (CZK/Kč). Not the Euro. Exchange at banks or ATMs, never at the street exchange booths in the centre (terrible rates). Cards widely accepted.
• Language: Czech. English is spoken in tourist areas and by younger people. German is understood by some. Learning "děkuji" (thank you) and "pivo prosím" (beer please) gets you far.
• Tipping: 10% at restaurants is standard. Round up at bars. Don't leave coins on the table — tell the waiter the total you want to pay when settling the bill.
• Safety: Prague is very safe. The main risk is tourist-targeted scams — overcharging taxis (use Bolt or Liftago apps), dishonest currency exchange, and restaurant bill padding. Always check the bill.
• Tap water: Safe to drink but many restaurants will try to sell you bottled water. Asking for tap water is fine.
• Trick to spot tourist traps: If a restaurant in Old Town has a person standing outside with a menu trying to lure you in, walk past. The good places don't need to.