Reykjavik

Overview

Reykjavik is unlike any other capital in Europe. A city of just 130,000 people, it sits on a peninsula jutting into the North Atlantic, surrounded by mountains, a vast bay, and the constant reminder that Iceland is geologically alive — the ground steams, the sky dances with light in winter, and the sun barely sets in summer. The city itself is small, colourful, and surprisingly creative — excellent restaurants, a music scene that punches far above its weight (Björk, Sigur Rós, Of Monsters and Men all grew up here), and a warmth of character that makes it immediately welcoming. But Reykjavik is also, honestly, a base. The real Iceland is the landscape outside the city — and it is one of the most extraordinary landscapes on earth.

Best Time to Visit

June to August offers the midnight sun — nearly 24 hours of daylight in June, warm temperatures (12–18°C), and all roads and highland tracks open. The city is at its most vibrant and the landscape fully accessible. September and October are the prime northern lights months — the summer crowds thin, the first snows dust the mountains, and the aurora appears on clear nights as early as late August. The autumn light on the landscape is extraordinary. November to March is deep winter — very cold (0 to -5°C), very dark, and very dramatic. The northern lights are at their most active, the hot springs feel magical, and prices drop significantly. April and May are shoulder season — quieter, cheaper, and increasingly light.

Key events: Iceland Airwaves (November — an internationally acclaimed music festival using venues across Reykjavik), Reykjavik Arts Festival (May–June), Secret Solstice (June — a music festival held during the midnight sun), Þorrablót (January–February — a midwinter feast of traditional Icelandic food, including some challenging delicacies).

Top Things to Do

Hallgrímskirkja Church

The towering concrete Lutheran church that dominates Reykjavik's skyline — designed to evoke Iceland's basalt lava columns, it rises 74 metres above the colourful rooftops. The interior is stark and beautiful. Take the lift to the tower observation deck for the best view of the city, the harbour, and the mountains beyond. The statue of explorer Leif Eriksson in front was a gift from the United States in 1930.

The Golden Circle

The classic Iceland day trip from Reykjavik — three extraordinary natural sites in a roughly circular route: Þingvellir National Park (where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates are visibly pulling apart, and where Iceland's first parliament met in 930 AD), the Geysir geothermal area (the original geyser, from which all others take their name — Strokkur erupts every 5–10 minutes), and Gullfoss (a double-tiered waterfall of extraordinary power). Rent a car for maximum flexibility; organised tours run daily.

Blue Lagoon

A geothermal spa in a lava field 40 minutes from Reykjavik — milky blue water at 38–40°C, silica mud masks, and a steam-shrouded otherworldly landscape. One of the most visited attractions in Iceland and, for once, fully deserving of the hype. Book weeks in advance (it sells out); the Comfort package is the sweet spot between cost and experience. Visit at night in winter for the northern lights overhead.

Northern Lights Hunting

Between September and March, on clear nights, the aurora borealis dances above Iceland with extraordinary frequency. The city lights wash out the display — drive 30 minutes out of Reykjavik for dark skies. Several tour operators run minibus northern lights tours from the city on clear evenings. The aurora forecast (vedur.is) runs from 0–9; anything above 3 with clear skies is promising.

Harpa Concert Hall

A striking glass-and-steel concert hall on the Reykjavik waterfront — its honeycomb facade reflects the sky, sea, and city in constantly changing patterns. Home to the Iceland Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera. Worth visiting just for the architecture and the harbour views from inside. Free to enter the public areas.

Laugavegur Street

Reykjavik's main shopping and dining street — colourful buildings, independent shops, design studios, wool stores (the lopapeysa, Iceland's traditional wool sweater, is the best souvenir), and a concentration of excellent restaurants and bars. Walk the full length and the surrounding streets on a weekday morning before the tour groups arrive.

Whale Watching

The waters of Faxaflói Bay around Reykjavik are rich in minke whales, humpbacks, and harbour porpoises. Several operators run 2–3 hour tours from the old harbour. Summer (June–August) has the highest sighting rates; the old fishing boat operators (Elding is the most respected) are preferable to the speedboat alternatives.

Landmannalaugar & the Highlands

For those with more time — the Icelandic highlands, accessible July–September, contain some of the most surreal landscapes on earth. Landmannalaugar, with its rhyolite mountains in shades of pink, green, and yellow, is the starting point of the famous Laugavegur trek (4 days, hut-to-hut). A single day trip from Reykjavik by super-jeep gives a taste of the highlands without the hiking commitment.

Neighbourhoods Guide

Miðborg (City Centre) — The compact downtown: Hallgrímskirkja, Laugavegur, the harbour, and most restaurants and bars. Everything walkable; where you want to stay.

Þórunnartún (East Reykjavik) — Business district and the Harpa concert hall. Less atmospheric but good modern hotels and easy access to the waterfront.

Vesturbær — A residential neighbourhood west of the centre. Quiet, local, and home to the excellent Reykjavik Botanic Garden and the Nauthólsvík geothermal beach (a small sandy beach with artificially warmed sea water).

Grandi (Old Harbour area) — Reykjavik's most interesting emerging neighbourhood — whale watching boats, the Maritime Museum, the excellent Grandi Mathöll food hall, and a cluster of design studios and galleries. The most dynamic part of the city right now.

Laugardalur — East of the centre, around the main municipal swimming pool (Laugardalslaug) and sports facilities. Locals swim here year-round; visiting an Icelandic public pool is a cultural experience not to miss.

Food & Drink

Icelandic food has moved from its preserved-fish-and-sheep origins to one of Scandinavia's most interesting dining scenes:

• Skyr — A thick, protein-rich dairy product somewhere between yoghurt and fresh cheese. Eaten for breakfast with berries and honey, or as a snack throughout the day. Icelandic skyr is fundamentally different from the exported product — richer, denser, more flavourful. Try it at any bakery or café.
• Lamb — Icelandic lamb roams free on the highlands all summer, eating wild herbs and Arctic grasses. The result is some of the finest lamb in the world — lean, flavourful, and distinct. Lamb soup (kjötsúpa) is the warming traditional dish; roast leg of lamb at a good restaurant is exceptional.
• Arctic char & cod — Iceland's cold, clean waters produce outstanding fish. Arctic char (similar to salmon trout) and Atlantic cod, prepared simply with butter and dill, are the benchmarks.
• Hot dogs (pylsur) — The great Reykjavik street food institution. Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur ("the town's best hot dogs") — a tiny kiosk near the harbour — has been serving since 1937. Bill Clinton ate here. Order "one with everything" (eina með öllu): mustard, ketchup, remoulade, raw onion, and crispy fried onion.
• Brennivín — Iceland's signature spirit — an unsweetened schnapps distilled from fermented grain, flavoured with caraway. Called "Black Death" by locals. Drunk ice-cold, often alongside hákarl (fermented shark — an acquired taste that is exactly as challenging as described).

Budget tip: Iceland is extremely expensive. The municipal swimming pools (there are seven in Reykjavik, from around £7 entry) are cheap and an authentic local experience. The Grandi Mathöll food hall has excellent meals from £12–18. Self-catering from Bónus supermarket dramatically reduces costs.

Getting Around

Walking covers the entire city centre easily — Reykjavik is genuinely compact and flat enough that most central sights are within 20 minutes on foot.

Buses (Strætó) serve the city and surroundings. The app is essential; routes can be infrequent. A single fare costs around £3.50.

Car hire is essentially mandatory for exploring beyond the city. Book well ahead in summer; prices are high but the freedom is worth it. The Ring Road (Route 1) circles the entire island — driving the full circuit takes about 7–10 days.

Taxis are expensive even by Icelandic standards. Use them sparingly.

From Keflavík Airport: The Flybus connects the airport to the BSÍ bus terminal in Reykjavik (45 minutes, around £25 one-way). A taxi costs £100+. Book the Flybus in advance.

Budget Guide

Day Trips

• Golden Circle — Þingvellir, Geysir, and Gullfoss. The classic Iceland day trip. 2–3 hours driving; all day with stops. Car or organised tour.
• South Coast — Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls, black sand beach at Reynisfjara (powerful waves — heed the warning signs), and the Eyjafjallajökull glacier volcano. Full day by car.
• Snæfellsnes Peninsula — A 3-hour drive north — a miniature Iceland with glaciers, lava fields, fishing villages, and the Snæfellsjökull volcano (Jules Verne's gateway to the centre of the earth). Best as an overnight trip.
• Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon — Icebergs calving from the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier into a lagoon, then drifting to a black sand beach. 4.5 hours from Reykjavik — a long day trip or stop on the Ring Road.
• Blue Lagoon — 40 minutes from the city; book well ahead. Often combined with the airport (it's en route to Keflavík) for a final-day soak before flying home.

Practical Info

• Currency: Icelandic Króna (ISK). Cards accepted absolutely everywhere — Iceland is one of the most cashless countries on earth. Cash is essentially unnecessary.
• Language: Icelandic — famously complex and largely unchanged since the Viking age. English is universally spoken; Icelanders switch without hesitation.
• Tipping: Not part of Icelandic culture and not expected. Service is included in prices. Rounding up is appreciated but not anticipated.
• Safety: Iceland is one of the safest countries in the world. The main dangers are natural — unpredictable weather, powerful waves on black sand beaches (rogue waves kill visitors every year — never turn your back on the ocean at Reynisfjara), and driving on unfamiliar roads in winter conditions.
• Weather: Famously changeable — the Icelandic saying "if you don't like the weather, wait five minutes" is accurate. Pack waterproofs, windproofs, and layers for any season. Summer highs rarely exceed 18°C.
• Midnight sun / Polar night: June 21 sees nearly 24 hours of daylight; December 21 sees only 4–5 hours. Both extremes are disorienting and extraordinary in their own way. Pack a sleep mask for summer.