Salzburg

Overview

Salzburg is almost impossibly picturesque — a perfectly preserved baroque city on the banks of the Salzach river, with a medieval fortress on the cliff above and the Austrian Alps closing in on every side. It's a city of two dominant stories: Mozart, who was born here in 1756 and spent much of his life trying to escape it, and The Sound of Music, which was filmed here in 1964 and which Austrians regard with a mixture of affection and mild exasperation. Both stories bring visitors; what keeps them is the city itself — the cathedral, the palaces, the Mirabell Gardens, the Getreidegasse, and the extraordinary natural setting that makes Salzburg one of the most beautiful small cities in Europe. And every July and August, the Salzburg Festival transforms it into the classical music capital of the world.

Best Time to Visit

May and June are ideal — mild temperatures (16–22°C), the Alps still snow-capped above a city in bloom, and the tourist numbers manageable. September and October are equally excellent — the Festival ends, the city calms, the autumn light on the baroque facades is extraordinary, and the surrounding lakes and mountains are at their most golden. July and August are peak festival season — the Salzburg Festival draws the world's finest musicians and the world's most well-heeled audiences; the city is full, expensive, and electric. December is magical — Salzburg's Christmas markets are among the most beautiful in Europe, and the Advent atmosphere in the old town (candlelight, mulled wine, carol singing in the cathedral square) is exactly what the season should feel like. Winter is cold but the ski resorts are close.

Key events: Salzburg Easter Festival (April), Salzburg Festival (late July–August — one of the world's premier classical music and opera festivals), Christmas markets (late November–December 24 — particularly the market in the Domplatz and the one at Hellbrunn Palace).

Top Things to Do

Hohensalzburg Fortress

The fortress on the Festungsberg above the old town — one of the largest and best-preserved medieval castles in Europe, built in 1077 and never successfully taken by force. The views from the ramparts across the baroque city, the Salzach river, and the Alps stretching in every direction are extraordinary. Take the funicular up (included in the fortress ticket) and walk down through the old town. The State Rooms and the fortress museum are worth the extra ticket.

Mozart's Birthplace & Residence

Two museums in the old town dedicated to Salzburg's most famous son — the Geburtshaus (birthplace) on Getreidegasse, where Mozart was born in 1756 (the family apartment on the third floor is preserved with instruments and portraits), and the Wohnhaus on Makartplatz, where the family moved when Mozart was 17. The birthplace is more atmospheric; the residence has better exhibits. Both are essential for anyone interested in the man behind the myth.

Mirabell Palace & Gardens

The baroque palace built by Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich for his mistress in 1606 — the gardens in front are a masterpiece of formal baroque design, with fountains, sculpted hedges, and the fortress as a backdrop. The famous Do-Re-Mi scene from The Sound of Music was filmed on the garden steps. The Marble Hall inside the palace is one of the most beautiful rooms in Austria — and still used for concerts.

Old Town (Altstadt)

The UNESCO-listed baroque city on the left bank of the Salzach — the Domplatz (cathedral square), the Residenzplatz (the archbishop's palace), the Stiftskirche St Peter (the oldest monastery in the German-speaking world), and the Getreidegasse (the narrow shopping street of baroque townhouses where Mozart was born). Walk every street slowly; the architectural coherence of the whole is what makes Salzburg unique — this is a city built to a single vision in a single era.

Salzburg Cathedral (Dom)

The 17th-century baroque cathedral dominating the Domplatz — where Mozart was baptised and later worked as court organist. The interior is vast and richly decorated; the organ (with 6,000 pipes) is one of the finest in Austria. Free to enter; the cathedral museum requires a ticket. The Dommuseum holds an extraordinary collection of religious art and the cathedral treasury.

Sound of Music Tour

Yes, it's a tourist bus tour. And yes, you should consider it — not because the film requires pilgrimage but because the locations (Mirabell Gardens, Nonnberg Abbey, the Lake District south of Salzburg, the Hellbrunn gazebo where Sixteen Going on Seventeen was filmed) are genuinely beautiful, and the tour guides' relationship with the film's mythology is entertainingly complicated. The Salzburg Lake District alone — the Wolfgangsee, Mondsee, and Fuschlsee — justifies an afternoon's driving.

Hellbrunn Palace & Trick Fountains

A 17th-century summer palace 4km south of the city, famous for its extraordinary trick fountains — water jets hidden in stone table seats, grottos, and garden sculptures, originally installed to soak the archbishop's guests without warning. Childishly delightful and still working perfectly after 400 years. The palace gardens are beautiful; the Sound of Music gazebo is here. Take bus 25 from the Rathaus.

The Salzburg Lake District (Salzkammergut)

The Alpine lake district begins just south of Salzburg — the Wolfgangsee, Mondsee, Hallstätter See, and dozens of smaller lakes, surrounded by mountains, with charming villages on their shores. Hallstatt (1.5 hours by bus and ferry) is the most famous — a village clinging to a cliff above a lake, the most photographed village in Austria. St Wolfgang and Mondsee are quieter and equally beautiful.

Neighbourhoods Guide

Altstadt (Old Town) — The entire UNESCO left bank. Magnificent, central, and tourist-heavy in summer. The most atmospheric place to stay; book well ahead for the Festival period.

Linzergasse & Steingasse — The right bank of the river, across the Staatsbrücke. The less touristy side — a long street of independent shops, neighbourhood cafés, and the most local atmosphere in central Salzburg.

Mülln — Northwest of the old town, along the river. A residential neighbourhood with the excellent Augustiner Bräustübl (a vast monastery brewery with a beer garden) and a more local character.

Schallmoos — East of the centre. Residential and quiet; good mid-range hotels without the old town premium.

Aigen / Parsch — Upscale residential suburbs south of the centre. Villa hotels with gardens; quieter than the old town, 15 minutes by bus.

Food & Drink

Austrian cuisine in Salzburg is hearty, Central European, and better than its reputation:

• Wiener Schnitzel — The breaded veal cutlet, fried in clarified butter, served with a lemon wedge and potato salad or parsley potatoes. Ubiquitous and, when done well (thin, crispy, not greasy), deeply satisfying. Zum Eulenspiegel and Gasthof Wilder Mann do excellent versions.
• Salzburger Nockerl — The city's signature dessert — a soufflé of beaten egg whites and sugar, baked into three golden peaks representing the three hills of Salzburg, dusted with icing sugar. Fragile, airy, and theatrical; it must be eaten immediately. Order it at the start of your main course so it arrives on time.
• Kasnocken — Austrian cheese dumplings with caramelised onion and chives. A mountain dish that appears everywhere in the Alpine region; warming and filling.
• Mozart Kugeln — The round chocolate confection of pistachio marzipan and nougat covered in dark chocolate, invented in Salzburg in 1890. Buy them from Fürst (the original maker, on Brodgasse) rather than the mass-produced supermarket versions — the quality difference is significant.
• Beer at the Augustiner — The Augustiner Bräustübl monastery brewery in Mülln is one of the great beer halls in the German-speaking world — a self-service system where you rinse your stone mug at a fountain, fill it from the tap, and carry it to a table in the vast garden or halls. A litre costs around €5. Bring cash; they don't take cards.

Budget tip: Salzburg is expensive but the Grünmarkt (the daily market behind the cathedral) has excellent cheap lunch options — grilled sausages, bread, cheese, and vegetables. The university Mensa near the Universität has cheap hot meals. The Augustiner beer garden offers exceptional value for an afternoon.

Getting Around

Walking is the best and only way to explore the old town — it's compact, largely pedestrianised, and every sight is within 20 minutes on foot.

Buses cover the wider city and the surrounding area efficiently. The Salzburg Card (24/48/72 hours) includes unlimited public transport and free entry to most museums and attractions — excellent value if you plan to visit several sights.

Cycling is pleasant along the Salzach river and into the surrounding countryside. Several rental shops near the station.

From Salzburg Airport: Bus 10 connects the airport to the city centre (20 minutes, €2.60). Taxis cost €15–20.

From Vienna: 2.5 hours by high-speed train (Railjet). Trains run every hour; book in advance for the best prices.

From Munich: 1.5 hours by train — making Salzburg an easy day trip from Munich or vice versa.

Budget Guide

Day Trips

• Hallstatt — The impossibly photogenic lakeside village, 1.5 hours by bus and ferry. The most photographed village in Austria; go early to beat the crowds.
• Berchtesgaden & Eagle's Nest — Just across the German border, 1 hour by bus — Hitler's mountain retreat perched at 1,834 metres, with vertiginous views across the Alps. The history is dark; the landscape is extraordinary. Open May–October.
• Munich — Bavaria's capital is 1.5 hours by train — a natural pairing for a multi-city trip. Beer halls, art museums, and Oktoberfest.
• Wolfgangsee — The Sound of Music lake, with the pilgrimage church of St Wolfgang and the rack railway up the Schafberg mountain. 1 hour by bus and ferry.
• Werfen — The Eisriesenwelt (world's largest accessible ice cave) and Hohenwerfen Castle in the Salzach gorge south of the city. 45 minutes by train; extraordinary in summer.

Practical Info

• Currency: Euro (€). Cards widely accepted; the Augustiner brewery and some smaller cafés are cash only.
• Language: German (Austrian dialect). English spoken well across the hospitality industry, particularly during the Festival season. A Grüß Gott (local greeting) and Danke are always appreciated.
• Tipping: Round up or leave 10% at restaurants. Hand it directly to the server when paying.
• Safety: Salzburg is extremely safe — one of the lowest crime rates of any European city.
• Salzburg Festival bookings: Tickets for the main Festival productions (July–August) sell out months in advance and are expensive. The open dress rehearsals are significantly cheaper. Free outdoor screenings of Festival productions are shown in the Kapitelplatz during the Festival period.
• Weather: Alpine weather is changeable year-round. Even in summer, rain can arrive quickly — pack a waterproof layer. Winter brings reliable snow; the surrounding ski resorts (Obertauern, Zell am See) are excellent.