Savannah

Overview

Savannah is frequently voted the most beautiful city in America, and it is difficult to argue with the verdict. The 18th-century urban plan — a grid of streets interrupted by 22 public squares, each shaded by ancient live oak trees draped in Spanish moss — creates an urban experience unlike anywhere else in the United States. Walking from square to square, passing fountains and Civil War monuments and antebellum mansions, feels more like being in a European city than an American one.

James Oglethorpe laid out Savannah in 1733 with a radical urban vision: public green spaces at regular intervals, a democratic mixing of civic, commercial, and residential uses around each square. The squares survived the Civil War (Sherman famously spared Savannah from the destruction he inflicted on much of Georgia), survived urban renewal, and have now been meticulously restored as the foundation of one of America's most remarkable historic districts.

The city is also, famously, haunted — or at least ghost-tour-obsessed. The concentration of history, death, and drama in a compact, atmospheric streetscape has spawned dozens of ghost tour companies and a genuine culture of haunting that adds an entertaining layer to evening explorations. The book (and subsequent film) "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" by John Berendt put Savannah on the national consciousness in 1994 and remains an excellent pre-trip read.

Best Time to Visit

March to May is ideal — the azaleas bloom across the squares, temperatures are perfect (18–25°C), and the St Patrick's Day celebration (one of the largest in the US, second only to New York) draws 500,000+ visitors on the third weekend of March.

October and November are excellent — mild weather, the city's atmospheric quality enhanced by autumn quality of light, and the Savannah Film Festival (October) brings extra cultural programming.

June through September is hot and extremely humid — temperatures regularly exceed 35°C with high humidity that makes outdoor exploration genuinely uncomfortable in afternoon hours. Hurricane season risk exists. Not recommended.

Key events: St Patrick's Day (March — Savannah turns green for a week), Savannah Film Festival (October), SCAD Savannah Film Festival (October), Savannah Food & Wine Festival (November), Tour of Homes and Gardens (March).

Top Things to Do

Walking the Historic Squares

The 22 squares are Savannah's defining feature and most of the city's sightseeing happens within or between them. Start at Johnson Square (the first, laid out in 1733) and work south to Forsyth Park (the 30-acre Victorian park at the south end of the historic district, fountain and café). Each square has its own character, monuments, and surrounding architecture. Chippewa, Madison, Monterey, and Calhoun squares are particularly beautiful.

Forsyth Park

The grandest of Savannah's green spaces is anchored by an ornate fountain (1858) that appears on every postcard. The park hosts a Saturday farmers market, various festivals, and a café with outdoor seating under the oaks. In the morning fog with Spanish moss backlit by early sun, it is one of the most beautiful public spaces in the American South.

Bonaventure Cemetery

A Victorian cemetery overlooking the marsh at the eastern edge of the city — ancient live oaks, elaborate marble monuments, Spanish moss, and the birds and deer that move freely through it. The grave of "Little Gracie" (a marble statue of a six-year-old girl who died in 1889) is covered in toys and trinkets left by visitors. The Bird Girl statue photographed for the cover of "Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" was originally here (now at the Telfair Academy). Atmospheric at all hours; particularly striking in morning fog.

Telfair Museums

Savannah has an impressive concentration of art museums for its size. The Telfair Academy (in an 1818 Regency mansion), the Owens-Thomas House (1819 Regency architecture, excellent enslaved people quarters interpretation), and the Jepson Center (contemporary art building by Moshe Safdie) together make up the Telfair Museums. The Jepson holds the Bird Girl statue. Combination admission around $20.

The Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD)

SCAD's campus is embedded throughout the historic district — the art school occupies dozens of historic buildings and has injected sustained creative energy into the city's culture. Gallery SCAD shows student and alumni work; the SCAD Museum of Art is excellent. The presence of 15,000+ art and design students gives Savannah a creative vitality unusual for a small city.

Ghost Tours

Savannah's ghost tour industry is enormous and, frankly, entertaining. The city's age, history, and atmospheric streetscape make for genuinely good ghost stories. Savannah Haunted History Tours and the Blue Orb Ghost Tour are the most reputable. Evening tours through dimly lit squares, past hauntingly beautiful mansions and burying grounds, are an excellent way to spend a night in the city regardless of your paranormal beliefs.

Food & Drink

• Shrimp and grits — Georgia's signature dish: sweet, fresh shrimp served over stone-ground grits with bacon, sausage, and a rich sauce. Mrs Wilkes Dining Room (a communal table, boarding-house style institution) and The Olde Pink House are the classic Savannah versions.
• Low Country boil — Shrimp, crab, corn, sausage, and new potatoes boiled together in spiced water and dumped on newspaper at the table. A coastal Georgia tradition served at seafood restaurants across the city.
• Pralines — The Savannah Candy Kitchen makes fresh pecan pralines — caramel and pecan confections — in the original Historic District storefront. Smell them from two squares away. Buy two: one to eat now, one for the walk back.
• Sweet tea — Georgia sweet tea is not the slightly sweet iced tea elsewhere — it is a concentrated Southern tradition of very sweet, very cold tea served with every meal. Non-negotiable with fried chicken.
• Fried chicken — Mrs Wilkes Dining Room serves what many consider the finest fried chicken in the South: whole meals of fried chicken, collard greens, mac and cheese, black-eyed peas, and cornbread at communal tables. Cash only; lines out the door.
• Peach cobbler — Georgia peaches (the state fruit, with an intensity and sweetness that mass-market versions can't match) in cobbler form, served warm with vanilla ice cream, at virtually every restaurant. In season May–August.

Getting Around

Savannah's historic district is compact and walkable — most of the sights, restaurants, and bars are within a 30-minute walk of each other. The squares are designed for pedestrian movement.

The Dot (Downtown Savannah Transportation) free shuttle runs through the historic district and connects to City Hall. Helpful for covering more ground without walking.

Rideshares (Uber/Lyft) are available and cheap for getting to Bonaventure Cemetery, Forsyth Park's south end, or River Street from the upper historic district.

River Street is a cobblestoned waterfront strip of restaurants, bars, and shops along the Savannah River — reached from the historic district via a steep ramp or stone stairs.

Savannah/Hilton Head International Airport is about 12 km from downtown. Rideshares cost $20–30.

Budget Guide

Day Trips

• Tybee Island — 30 minutes east. Savannah's beach: a small barrier island with a historic lighthouse, laid-back beach culture, and excellent seafood shacks. Best April–October.
• Jekyll Island & Cumberland Island — Georgia's Golden Isles, 2 hours south. Jekyll Island has a remarkable Gilded Age history (the Rockefellers and Vanderbilts vacationed here); Cumberland Island is a wild, roadless National Seashore with wild horses. Ferry required for Cumberland.
• Beaufort, SC — 45 minutes north. A beautifully preserved antebellum town on Port Royal Sound with excellent restaurants and a similar feel to Savannah, but smaller and less touristy.
• Charleston, SC — 2 hours north. Savannah's closest rival for antebellum coastal beauty; a worthy destination in its own right.

Practical Info

• Currency: US Dollar (USD). Many Savannah restaurants and bars are cash-friendly; street vendors typically cash-only.
• Language: English, spoken with a distinctive Georgia drawl that visitors invariably find charming.
• Tipping: 18–20% at restaurants. Ghost tour guides appreciate tips at the end of tours.
• To-go cups: Savannah allows public alcohol consumption in the historic district via designated "to-go cups" (red plastic cups purchased at bars). Savannah's open container law is one of the most liberal in the US.
• Heat and humidity: Summer heat is intense; plan outdoor sightseeing for early morning and late afternoon. Carry water constantly.
• Time zone: Eastern Time (ET) — UTC-5 in winter, UTC-4 in summer.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days do I need in Savannah?

Two to three days is ideal for a first visit — enough time to walk most of the squares, visit Bonaventure Cemetery, eat at Mrs Wilkes, take a ghost tour, and absorb the atmosphere. A fourth day allows a Tybee Island beach trip or the drive to Charleston.

What is the best time of year to visit Savannah?

Spring (March–May) is the finest season — the azalea bloom in late March transforms the squares into spectacular settings, temperatures are ideal, and the city is at its most beautiful. Fall (October–November) is also excellent. Avoid the summer months if possible due to the extreme heat and humidity.

Is Savannah's St Patrick's Day celebration worth it?

It is one of the largest St Patrick's Day celebrations in the United States — the parade runs for hours, the river is dyed green, and 500,000 people descend on a city of 150,000. If you enjoy large-scale, genuinely festive events, it is extraordinary. If you want a quiet, contemplative Savannah experience, avoid March entirely and come back in April.

What should I read before visiting Savannah?

"Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil" by John Berendt (1994) is the essential Savannah book — a true crime story set in the city's peculiar social world. It will make your walks through the squares, visits to Bonaventure Cemetery, and evenings in Savannah far richer.

Is Savannah good for families?

Yes — the historic squares are wonderful for children to explore, Bonaventure Cemetery is appropriately spooky for older children, Tybee Island is excellent for beach days, and the SCAD campus has public exhibitions. Ghost tours are available in family-friendly versions.

What is the food scene like in Savannah?

Better than you'd expect for a small city. Mrs Wilkes for classic Southern boarding-house meals, The Olde Pink House for upscale Low Country cuisine, and a growing number of creative restaurants across the historic district make eating well easy. The culinary program at SCAD has contributed to the city's food culture.

Are the Savannah squares safe to walk at night?

The historic district and most squares are very safe for evening walks. The squares have good lighting and regular foot traffic from tourists and residents. Exercise standard precautions in less-touristed areas at night.