Split

Overview

Split is unlike any other city in Europe. The old town is not built around a Roman palace — it is the Roman palace. Emperor Diocletian retired here in 305 AD, and when his palace was abandoned centuries later, people simply moved in. They built houses inside the walls, converted the mausoleum into a cathedral, turned the temples into churches, and kept living. Today, around 3,000 people still reside within the palace walls — their apartments stacked inside ancient Roman arches, their laundry strung between 4th-century columns. It's messy, beautiful, and completely alive in a way that no open-air museum could replicate. Add an extraordinary coastline, a string of nearby islands, and a food scene that has quietly become one of the best on the Adriatic, and Split makes a compelling case for being the finest city on the Croatian coast.

Best Time to Visit

May and June are the sweet spot — warm enough to swim (sea 20–22°C by June), the palace and waterfront before the summer crush, and the city still operating at a local pace. September and October are arguably better — the Adriatic stays warm into October, the summer crowds evaporate after mid-September, and the light on the limestone turns golden. July and August are extremely busy and very hot (35°C+) — the Riva promenade and palace streets become congested, prices spike, and accommodation books out months in advance. That said, the island connections are at their peak and the evening atmosphere is electric. Winter (November–March) is mild and quiet — some restaurants and hotels close, but the palace in winter light, with almost no tourists, is extraordinary.

Key events: Ultra Europe (July — one of Europe's largest electronic music festivals, held on the Poljud stadium and nearby beaches), Split Summer Festival (July–August — classical music, opera, and theatre in open-air historic venues), Feast of St Domnius (May 7 — the city's patron saint, with processions through the palace).

Top Things to Do

Diocletian's Palace

The reason Split exists — a UNESCO-listed Roman palace covering 30,000 square metres, with walls up to 28 metres high and towers at each corner. Walk through the Golden Gate (the best-preserved Roman city gate in the world), explore the underground cellars (Podrum — the original basement of the palace, now an exhibition space), climb the cathedral bell tower, and then simply wander the labyrinth of streets and courtyards where ancient Rome and everyday Dalmatian life overlap in the most extraordinary way.

Peristyle (Peristil)

The central courtyard of Diocletian's Palace — a colonnaded square where the emperor received his subjects. Now it's where locals drink coffee at outdoor café tables between ancient columns, tourists photograph the cathedral, and occasionally an opera performance fills the space. Sit here at dusk with a glass of wine and the pale limestone columns glowing in the last light. One of the great urban experiences in Europe.

Cathedral of Saint Domnius

Built inside Diocletian's own mausoleum — a pagan Roman emperor's tomb converted into a Christian cathedral, which has been in continuous use for over 1,700 years. The irony (Diocletian was one of the most aggressive persecutors of Christians in Roman history) is not lost on locals. The octagonal interior, the carved wooden choir stalls, and the treasury are excellent. Climb the adjacent bell tower for the best view of the palace rooftops and the sea.

Marjan Hill

The pine-forested peninsula rising above the western edge of Split — a network of paths through the trees, with viewpoints looking back over the city, the palace, and the islands of Brač and Šolta. Walk up from Varoš neighbourhood (the oldest Croatian part of Split, predating the Croatian settlement of the palace) through the medieval churches carved into the rock face. A morning run or an evening walk here is the best free thing to do in Split.

The Riva Promenade

The wide marble waterfront promenade in front of the palace walls — the social spine of Split, where the city comes to be seen. Morning coffee, afternoon ice cream, evening aperitivo — the Riva moves at a different pace at each hour. The view from the water looking back at the palace walls rising directly from the sea is the definitive Split image.

Fish Market (Peškarija) & Green Market

The morning fish market just east of the palace walls — tuna, sea bass, bream, squid, and octopus fresh from the Adriatic, sold by fishermen who were at sea before dawn. The adjacent green market sells local vegetables, olive oil, and Dalmatian lavender. Go before 9am for the full selection; most stalls are gone by noon. The fish market is one of the most alive and authentic experiences in Split.

Island Day Trips

Split is the hub of the central Dalmatian island network — ferries and catamarans connect to Brač (with the famous Zlatni Rat beach), Hvar (the glamorous island), Vis (the most unspoilt), Šolta (the quietest), and Korčula (the most beautiful old town after Dubrovnik). A day on Hvar or Brač gives a completely different dimension to a Split visit.

Meštrović Gallery

The home and studio of Ivan Meštrović — Croatia's greatest sculptor — built to his own design overlooking the sea west of the centre. The collection of monumental bronze and marble works fills the villa, the adjacent Kaštelet chapel, and the gardens. Meštrović worked in a grand, emotionally intense style influenced by Rodin; the Chapel of the Holy Cross in the Kaštelet is his masterpiece.

Neighbourhoods Guide

Diocletian's Palace (Stari Grad) — Living inside the palace walls is the most atmospheric option. Noisy in summer with bars open late, but the experience of waking up inside a Roman emperor's home is unrepeatable.

Varoš — The oldest Croatian neighbourhood, on the slopes below Marjan Hill, west of the palace. Steep stone streets, neighbourhood konobe (traditional restaurants), and almost no tourists. The most authentic part of Split.

Manuš — Just east of the palace. Residential, quiet, and with some of the best neighbourhood restaurants in the city. A smart base for those who want proximity without the palace noise.

Spinut — A seaside neighbourhood north of Marjan with a marina and local beach. More residential and further from the sights — better for longer stays.

Bačvice — The neighbourhood east of the ferry terminal, with Split's most popular urban beach and a cluster of good restaurants and bars. A 10-minute walk from the palace.

Food & Drink

Dalmatian cuisine is simple, seasonal, and built around the sea — and Split does it exceptionally well:

• Peka — The signature Dalmatian slow-cook: lamb, veal, or octopus cooked under a peka (a heavy iron bell covered in embers) for hours until falling-apart tender. Must be ordered 24 hours in advance at any good konoba. Worth planning your day around.
• Grilled fish — Sea bass (brancin) and bream (orada) grilled over wood, dressed with olive oil and lemon, served with blitva (Swiss chard and potato). The definitive Dalmatian meal, executed well at the better konobe away from the tourist waterfront.
• Prstaci & školjke — Date mussels and local shellfish from the Adriatic. Order whatever the kitchen says is freshest that morning.
• Soparnik — A Dalmatian flatbread filled with Swiss chard, onion, and olive oil, baked on a wood fire. A street food and home cooking staple from the region around Split.
• Local wine — The vineyards of the Dalmatian hinterland produce excellent wine. Plavac Mali from Pelješac and the islands is the red of the region; Pošip and Grk from Korčula are the whites. Try them at a wine bar rather than a tourist restaurant for better value and selection.

Budget tip: Split is significantly cheaper than Dubrovnik. A full fish lunch at a neighbourhood konoba in Varoš costs €15–20 per person with wine. The market produces excellent picnic material. Bačvice beach has cheap cafés that serve food as good as anything near the palace.

Getting Around

Walking covers the entire historic centre and palace in 20 minutes end to end. The Riva, the palace, Varoš, and the fish market are all within comfortable walking distance.

Buses connect the centre to the wider city — the bus station is adjacent to the ferry terminal, making connections easy.

Ferries and catamarans from the Split ferry terminal (immediately east of the palace) connect to all the major Dalmatian islands. Jadrolinija runs the scheduled ferry services; several private operators run faster catamarans. Buy tickets in advance for car ferries in summer.

From the airport: Split Airport is 25km west of the city. Airport buses connect to the city bus station (30–40 minutes, €7). Taxis cost €30–40.

From Dubrovnik: Regular buses (4.5 hours along the coastal road) and catamarans (seasonal — around 3 hours) connect the two cities. The bus journey through the Dalmatian coast is beautiful.

Budget Guide

Day Trips

• Hvar — The most glamorous island on the Adriatic — a medieval walled town, lavender fields, and beach clubs on the southern coast. 1 hour by catamaran. Book accommodation far in advance in summer.
• Brač & Zlatni Rat — The famous "golden horn" beach at Bol — a narrow spit of pebbles that shifts direction with the current. 1 hour by ferry to Supetar, then bus to Bol.
• Vis — The most remote and unspoilt of the central Dalmatian islands. No mass tourism, excellent wine (Vugava white), and the Blue Cave on the nearby island of Biševo. 2.5 hours by ferry.
• Krka National Park — A series of spectacular waterfalls on the Krka river, surrounded by forest and Roman ruins. 1.5 hours by bus or organised tour. Swimming in the pools below the falls is now restricted — check current rules.
• Trogir — A tiny UNESCO island city connected to the mainland by bridges, 30km north of Split. A Romanesque cathedral, Venetian palaces, and a completely preserved medieval layout. 30 minutes by bus.

Practical Info

• Currency: Euro (€). Croatia adopted the Euro in 2023. Cards widely accepted; some smaller konobe and market stalls prefer cash.
• Language: Croatian. English is spoken well in the tourist industry. A few Croatian words (hvala = thank you, molim = please) are always received warmly.
• Tipping: 10–15% at restaurants is appreciated and increasingly expected in tourist areas. Round up taxi fares.
• Safety: Split is very safe. The Bačvice and Riva areas can be rowdy on summer nights — noisy rather than dangerous. Standard bag awareness in crowded areas.
• Heat: July and August temperatures regularly exceed 35°C. The palace streets offer shade but little airflow. Start sightseeing early, rest through the hottest hours, and resume in the late afternoon.
• Picigin: Split's own sport — played in the shallow water at Bačvice beach, involving five players keeping a small ball from touching the water using acrobatic dives and slaps. Invented in Split in 1908. Watch the locals play on any summer morning; it's genuinely impressive.