Thessaloniki

Overview

Thessaloniki (Salonica) is Greece's second city and, in the view of many visitors who know both, its most rewarding. Founded by Alexander the Great's half-brother Cassander in 315 BC and named after Alexander's sister, it has been successively Macedonian, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and Greek — and each layer is still visible. Fifteen UNESCO-listed Byzantine churches stand within the city centre. The city's food culture is exceptional (Thessalonikans debate their superiority over Athens with data); the waterfront promenade is one of Greece's best; and the city's universities give it an energy that tourist-heavy Athens lacks.

Best Time to Visit

April to June and September to October — warm (20–28°C), less crowded than summer, and the city's cultural season is active. The Thessaloniki International Film Festival (November) is one of Europe's significant independent film events. Summer (July–August) is hot (33°C+) and the beaches of Halkidiki are 45 minutes away.

Top Things to Do

The White Tower (Lefkos Pyrgos)

The 15th-century Ottoman watchtower on the waterfront is the symbol of Thessaloniki. The six-floor museum inside tells the city's history from ancient Macedonia to modern Greece through well-designed exhibits. The terrace at the top gives the best views over the Thermaic Gulf and Halkidiki.

Byzantine Churches

The city's fifteen UNESCO-listed Byzantine churches include:

• Hagia Sophia (8th century) — the model for Constantinople's, with extraordinary mosaics
• Rotunda of Galerius — a Roman mausoleum converted to a church, now a museum, with the finest 4th-century mosaics in the world
• Hosios David — hidden in the Ano Poli neighbourhood, with a breathtaking 5th-century mosaic

Ano Poli (Upper Town)

The Ottoman-era neighbourhood of wooden houses, mosques, and Byzantine walls overlooking the modern city is Thessaloniki's most atmospheric quarter. The old walls, the Atatürk Museum (the founder of modern Turkey was born here), and the views from the Eptapyrgio fortress make it worth the uphill walk.

Vlatadon Monastery

The 14th-century monastery in Ano Poli is still functioning, with peacocks wandering the courtyard. The view from the monastery garden over the city to the gulf is extraordinary.

Modiano & Kapani Markets

The two covered markets in the city centre are the practical expression of Thessaloniki's food culture. Modiano (1922, Art Deco arcade) specialises in fresh produce and fish; Kapani, the older Ottoman-era bazaar, covers spices, nuts, and meats.

Food & Drink

Thessaloniki is, by general Greek agreement, the country's most interesting food city:

• Bougatsa — Crispy phyllo pastry filled with semolina cream (sweet) or cheese, eaten for breakfast at Bantis or Thessaloniki Bougatsa. The semolina version is dusted with icing sugar and cinnamon.
• Trigona Panoramatos — Triangle-shaped phyllo pastries filled with cream, invented in the Panorama suburb. A pilgrimage worth making.
• Taramosalata — The Greek fish roe dip is made with significantly more care here than in tourist Athens. The version at Myrsini is famous.
• Local sausages — Loukanika, pastourma, and the smoked sausages of the Macedonian interior are available at the markets.
• Tsipouro — The local grape spirit (like raki or grappa) served with small plates in ouzeri. The ritual of the tsipouro meze is one of the city's pleasures.

Getting Around

Thessaloniki's city bus network covers the major areas. The waterfront is walkable from the White Tower to Nea Paralia. Thessaloniki Airport is 15km from the city centre.

From Athens: 5h by intercity train or 1h by plane. From Sofia: 4h by bus.

Budget Guide

Day Trips

• Halkidiki — The three-pronged peninsula southeast of the city has some of Greece's best beaches. The first prong (Kassandra) is developed; the third (Mount Athos) is an autonomous monastic republic admitting only male pilgrims with permits.
• Vergina — The ancient Macedonian royal tombs where Alexander the Great's father Philip II was buried. Star of Vergina, golden armour, and a brilliant museum. 80km west.
• Meteora — The monasteries on top of sandstone pinnacles. 4h south by car or bus.

Practical Info

• Language: Greek. English well spoken in tourist areas.
• Tipping: 10% in restaurants; rounding up in cafés.
• Safety: Very safe. Normal precautions.